The Nakasendo road in Japan is a 400-year-old route that was established in the 1600s to facilitate trade and travel between Kyoto and Edo, now known as Tokyo. The road was used by important and wealthy individuals like military rulers, samurai, and warlords. The route still exists in its entirety, with dozens of post towns that sprung up along the way, forming an epic walking itinerary across central Japan. The modern roads have replaced most parts of the Nakasendo route, but the section that runs through the Gifu prefecture offers a two-to-three-day walk through rural Japan of the feudal era. The journey begins in Ena city at the Hiroshige Museum of Art, where visitors can find inspiration in ukiyo-e woodblock prints that depict scenes of travellers, teahouses, onsen bathers, and market towns along the Nakasendo.
One of the most atmospheric parts of the Nakasendo road in the Gifu prefecture is just outside the town of Ochiai near Nakatsugawa. Visitors can explore a ‘honjin’, an officially appointed inn turned museum that showcases the precautions needed at wayside accommodation during the Edo era. The town also features a sharp bend in the road, characteristic of post towns, which helped travellers shake off bandits. As travellers walk towards the Jikkoku Pass, they can stop by the Io-ji temple dedicated to recovery from journeys. The 400-year-old stone pavement has been preserved and extended in this section, offering a glimpse into how Edo-era travellers would have walked. The section ends at the Shin Chaya inn, where visitors can enjoy tea, homemade plum wine, or stay for the night.
The Nakasendo road continues to the post town of Magome, with the snow-capped Kiso mountains as a backdrop. Tour buses and bustling restaurants offering local snacks like sticky sesame sauce-coated rice balls line the town’s street. Magome features a partly rebuilt 17th-century high street with traditional houses, sake breweries, and shops selling souvenirs. Further along the road in the Nagano prefecture lies the pristinely preserved town of Tsumago, where cars are prohibited along the main street. Traditional ryokans, or inns, offer unique accommodations that complement the historic walking experience. Ryokan Ichikawa in Ena city, established 400 years ago, still maintains its historic style of hospitality, providing guests with tatami-matted rooms, futon beds, and traditional meals hosted by innkeepers dressed in silk kimonos.
Staying in a ryokan allows visitors to immerse themselves in the Edo-era experience, with shared toilets and communal bathing areas. Dinners at ryokans are a highlight, offering a seven-course meal featuring local delicacies like black mushrooms, Hida beef, and pumpkin pudding. The innkeepers, often generations of the same family, dress in traditional attire and provide a warm and welcoming atmosphere for guests. The ryokan experience enhances the historic walking journey along the Nakasendo road, providing a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past and the traditions that have been preserved over the centuries. The combination of walking through ancient post towns and staying in traditional inns offers a unique and immersive travel experience in rural Japan.
