At the intersection of sartorial elegance and cultural expression lies the world of dandyism, a visual rebellion against societal norms encapsulated by a group of fierce fashion figures we now celebrate as “dandies.” These individuals catapult their fanciest fashions into the cultural discourse, demonstrating that attire can serve not only as personal expression but also as a statement of political resistance. With the Met Gala’s upcoming theme, “Tailored for You,” aligned with the exhibition “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” opening soon, the spotlight shines on the evolution of black dandyism—a stylistic movement steeped in history, cultural appropriation, and transformation.
The term “black dandy” historically refers to an individual deeply committed to aesthetics as a central aspect of their lifestyle. Monica L. Miller, the exhibition’s guest curator, emphasizes that black dandyism has evolved through tumultuous eras, from slavery to the modern age, becoming a vital part of black identity and culture. As fashion historian Shelby Ivey Christie notes, black dandyism offers a narrative of visual resistance against entrenched societal norms. The Met’s exhibit examines these themes through twelve distinct sections that encapsulate what it means to be a dandy, exploring identity, politics, and the hybridization of African and European fashion traditions over centuries.
Originating in the 18th century during the Enlightenment, the dandy phenomenon gained traction as the Atlantic slave trade unveiled a fashion trend among servants dressed in lavish attire. This act of sartorial display was, in a sense, both a mask of prestige for the elite and a form of empowerment for the enslaved. Through the centuries, black dandyism has shifted from ornamental subjugation to self-assertion and style autonomy, as articulated by Miller. Her collaboration with Andrew Bolton, the curator of the Costume Institute, aims to showcase both vintage and contemporary pieces that highlight the diversity and richness of black menswear over three centuries.
Importantly, dandyism is not limited to men alone; it transcends gender norms. The exhibit pays tribute to figures such as Ralph Kerwineo and Stormé DeLarverie, performers who blended fashion with expressions of gender identity in the early 20th century. Today, dandy aesthetics are adopted by women such as Rihanna and Janelle Monáe, illustrating an evolution in how gendered fashion is perceived and embraced. In this light, the “Disguise” section of the exhibit illustrates how attire can manipulate identity, asserting that race, class, and gender are shaped by clothing conventions.
Certain sections of the exhibition delve deeper into the politics of dress amongst African Americans, particularly the “Respectability” segment, which features artifacts worn by influential figures like Frederick Douglass and W.E.B. Du Bois. This part of the exhibit reveals how grooming and attire are instruments of power and respect, showcasing the journey toward social agency. From Douglass’s outfits to the tailored suits of renowned designers, the exhibit traces how style informs social position and personal narrative, demonstrating a larger political context that surrounds aesthetics in the black community.
An ode to the flamboyance of the ’70s and ’80s, the “Beauty” section captures the essence of the black dandy’s evolution into a persona of radiance and pride following the Civil Rights movement. Rather than adhering to restrictive notions of masculinity, black men opted for sartorial experimentation, breaking conventional boundaries through vibrant fashion choices. The exhibit features contemporary pieces that embody this transition in masculinity, reflecting a vibrant past and a hopeful future through fabric and design.
Finally, the “Cool” section encapsulates a modern interpretation of dandyism, focusing on relaxed, casual styles that resonate with contemporary cultural movements. This exploration of relaxed attire emphasizes a resistance to formality while simultaneously harnessing the art of effortless style. With contributions from various designers who embody both avant-garde aesthetics and classical craftsmanship, this segment illustrates how today’s youth continue to define and redefine what being a dandy means within the complex fabric of contemporary society. Through this rich tapestry of culture, identity, and fashion, the upcoming exhibition will undoubtedly illuminate the legacy of black dandyism as a vibrant component of the fashion universe.
