The revival of the Waldorf-Astoria hotel marks a significant transformation in New York’s hospitality scene, particularly with its innovative approach to the iconic Waldorf salad. Chef Michael Anthony, who helms the kitchen at the hotel’s Lex Yard restaurant, introduces a refreshing take on the century-old recipe that marries tradition with modern culinary trends. This newly crafted salad reflects the grandeur of its Art Deco surroundings while promising a delightful gastronomic experience for a new generation of diners. Retaining the original’s key ingredients like celery, apples, and grapes, Anthony reimagines the dish to elevate it beyond the commonplace, cloying versions that have often plagued both diners and upscale restaurants.
Historically, the Waldorf salad, created by chef Oscar Tschirky in 1896, has struggled to maintain its appeal, often morphing into a mayonnaise-heavy mixture that detracts from its intended flavors. Anthony critiques these overly rich interpretations, which frequently muddled ingredients into a bland amalgamation. With a focus on simplicity and visual appeal, he introduces a lemon-infused aioli as a replacement for mayonnaise, refining the dish’s profile. The salad, diced into a chiffonade, achieves an inviting presentation reminiscent of a picnic with fresh ingredients coming together harmoniously on the plate.
The composition of the salad features an enticing blend of flavors and textures, marrying little gem lettuce, frisée, candied walnuts, fresh tomatoes, grapes, and toasted sunflower seeds, all finished with a sprinkle of grated cheddar cheese. This combination elevates the dish, allowing each component’s unique taste to shine. The salad not only stands as a bright, refreshing option ideal for summer but also promises versatility through seasonal variations to keep it relevant year-round. Offered at $26 a la carte or as part of a $140 prix-fixe menu, it quickly becomes a centerpiece of the dining experience at Lex Yard.
Further exploring the menu reveals Anthony’s ability to impress with other dishes as well, including pan-roasted black bass served in a subtly sweet bouillabaisse sauce, Maine lobster rolls characterized as “fully loaded,” and an intriguing red velvet soufflé tart. These offerings provide a glimpse into Anthony’s culinary expertise, marking a triumphant comeback for the hotel after nearly eight years of dormancy. On opening night, excitement was palpable as guests enjoyed a long-awaited meal in the newly revived space that now cradles modern elegance and comfort.
Lex Yard presents a dual dining experience; the ground level boasts a vibrant bar atmosphere, while the second floor exudes a plush, luxurious vibe. This dynamic setting encapsulates the spirit of the hotel, designed to cater to a variety of guests—from casual diners to those seeking an upscale experience. Even as the hotel undergoes final renovations, the ambiance remains lively, complemented by a buzzing Peacock Alley, now more appealing than in recent generations.
As the weather transitions into autumn, the Lex Yard offers an inviting escape for guests eager to savor its newly curated menu. The revival of iconic establishments like the Waldorf-Astoria not only revitalizes the culinary landscape but also reconnects the city with its rich heritage. Anthony’s modern Waldorf salad symbolizes this rebirth, promising lasting enjoyment and innovation that may redefine how we think about classic dishes for years to come.
